Now for something completely different: it isn’t exactly about wine, but in the spirit of fermentation science, here’s a story about a Washington state connection to one of America’s classic and most popular breweries.

Ruth Henderson pours hops into a tank at the Sierra Nevada Brewing Company in Chico, CA, as Abe Kabakoff, Sierra Nevada head pilot brewer, looks on.

In 1980, Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. founder Ken Grossman effectively put the Cascade hop, from Yakima, Wash., on the map. That hop was central to the pale ale that made Grossman’s company a household name.

More than three decades later, Washington State University researchers studying optimal brewing qualities with that same hop recently interned with Sierra Nevada master brewers to hone their brewing skills and learn advanced brewing methods that are being pioneered by American craft brewers.

Coming soon: Cougar Crimson Ale

In March, Ruth Henderson, postdoctoral researcher, and Dan Groenendale, field research director of the IAREC’s environmental and agricultural entomology laboratory, spent three days in Chico learning about Sierra Nevada’s brewing techniques from the company’s master brewers. With the knowledge they acquired, Henderson and Groenendale will brew beers for sensory analysis trials by sensory scientist Carolyn Ross in Pullman and by American Craft Brewers Association members.

In particular, Henderson said, she and Groenendale learned how to prevent oxidation in beer, which occurs when oxygen gets into beer after fermentation. This gives the beer a harsh, bitter aftertaste.

Based on the Sierra Nevada brewers’ recommendations, the WSU research team has moved to a closed system, fermenting beer in sealed kegs and moving it from one container to another using pressurized carbon dioxide so that oxygen never touches it.

“From now on, the only bitterness in our beer will come from the hops,” Henderson said.

“The folks at Sierra Nevada are meticulous when it comes to the quality of their beer,” she said. “They make sure it comes out excellent every time. What we learned from them is how to treat our brews like they do theirs — but on our small scale and with the equipment we have on hand.”

Henderson and Groenendale also received advice on choosing combinations of grains and hops to make a tasty, balanced beer when creating a new recipe. Henderson is putting these ideas to the test now in her recipe for the new Cougar Crimson Ale.

“It will be an IPA (India pale ale)-style beer with a natural red coloration from the grains I am using to make it. No food coloring needed,” she said. “I will be hopping it with whole, dried hop cones grown and harvested right here at the Prosser research station. Here’s hoping my tasters enjoy it.”

Read the full story to learn about Washington’s “hopping” beer industry and for more on the history of Sierra Nevada’s Cascade hop: http://bit.ly/17ZU8dd

-Nella Letizia

WSU Viticulture Students Land Jobs at Top Washington Vineyards

Where do the best wine grape growers in Washington State find talent to manage their vineyards? Two owners of some of the state’s top-ranked vineyards have selected Washington State University undergraduates, both majoring in Viticulture and Enology at the WSU Tri-Cities campus, to help oversee their acreage and grow consistently high-quality fruit.

WSU student Andrew Schultz headed to Washington’s Rattlesnake Hills AVA in December, landing a job as vineyard manager and general manager for Hattrup Farms, a wine grape and tree fruit producer. Owner Joe Hattrup is also the founder of Elephant Mountain Vineyards, listed in Washington Wines & Wineries, the authoritative book on wine in Washington, as one of Washington’s twenty “Premier Cru” vineyards.

Andrew Schultz

Schultz will have a lot on his plate, with duties including grape planting, employee management, budget oversight, and customer relations. He admits that this level of responsibility is not typical of a recent graduate, but Schultz’s path to a baccalaureate was anything but typical. “I began working and managing employees in a warehouse when I was sixteen,” recalled Schultz. A career in the military gave him further leadership experience.

During his studies at WSU-Tri-Cities, Schultz packed in classes like advanced wine chemistry, advanced physiology, and post-harvest science to give himself an added edge for a career in the vineyard. But he never viewed coursework as the sole ticket to success. “A lot of students believe course work is the essence of a degree program,” he said. “But experience is vital, too. You need practical experience before completing school if you want to land a higher-level position.”

WSU plant pathologist Dr. Naidu Rayapati, who is based at WSU’s Irrigated Agriculture Research and Extension Center in nearby Prosser, connected Schultz with a research project where he inventoried grapevine leafroll disease in another of Washington’s top vineyards to get a handle on the extent and significance of the disease. Schultz’s research efforts have earned him three awards from the Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers.

“Dr. Rayapati’s involvement was vital in getting me connected to the industry,” Schultz said. “He introduced me to many vineyard and winery operators. Washington has a tight-knit group of growers and wineries, so I see these contacts as vital for my career.”

Schultz has a single word of advice for those who want experience: “Ask.” And for WSU Tri-Cities students, asking opportunities abound, because much of the Washington wine industry is within easy reach of campus.

Elizabeth Jones

Elizabeth Jones, another viticulture and enology student studying at the WSU Tri-Cities campus, has been snatched up by Ciel du Cheval, a famed vineyard in the Red Mountain AVA. Washington Wines & Wineries designates Ciel du Cheval one of Washington’s twenty “Grand Cru” vineyards. As assistant vineyard manager, Jones is helping with day-to-day operations, as well as monitoring the telemetry systems that give growers pinpoint data for decisions on irrigation, frost control, and other viticultural practices. She will also be working in the lab, testing fruit for Brix, titratable acid, and pH — important indicators for both harvest and enological management.

Jones credits her education and advisors at WSU for her knowledge of the basics necessary for vineyard management, such as botany, plant physiology, and biochemistry. But she shares Schultz’s sentiment that classwork is not enough. Students should check with their advisors for opportunities, even unpaid internships and work experience. “Prospective employers are more likely to ask about experience than grades,” she noted.

Ciel du Cheval owner Jim Holmes was clearly impressed by Jones’ WSU-guided, grant-funded research projects. During her junior year, working with Rayapati, she researched the transmission and spread of grapevine leafroll virus. During her senior year, she undertook a comparison of the sensitivity and cost of enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and polymerase chain reaction (PCR) in detecting grapevine leafroll virus. “The prevailing view was that ELISA was the better technique, but research showed PCR to be more sensitive and cost-effective,” she said. Both years, she took home top prizes from the annual Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers (WAWGG) conference.

“I was not yet finished with school, interviewing at one of the top vineyards in the state, wondering why they would want to hire me,” Jones recalled. “Then Jim Holmes asked me, ‘With all of your experience and talent, why would you be interested working at a little vineyard like Ciel du Cheval?’”

Holmes said that Jones has all the ingredients he seeks in a management-level hire: Technical knowledge, initiative, curiosity, and the ability to work well with customers. And WSU offers a great intangible to its students. “WSU teaches its students how to think better,” he said.

Rayapati is proud of his students, but not necessarily surprised. “These two students have spent a considerable amount of time in my lab during their study at WSU Tri-Cities, learning science and gaining hands-on experience related to grapevines and grapes. These educational and practical experiences have played a big role in their career successes.”

To read more about Elizabeth Jones, see the Voice of the Vine article on Elizabeth Swanson (the name she used before we toasted her marriage): http://bit.ly/10PIMGy. Learn more about WSU’s undergraduate program in viticulture and enology by visiting http://bit.ly/9Xy6iI and stay tuned for future stories about WSU V&E graduates.

-Bob Hoffmann

Design-build team selected to construct new Wine Science Center

A proposed front entrance to the WSU Wine Science Center in Richland, WA. Construction is expected to begin in the fall (2013).

The Wine Science Center Development Authority has selected Lydig Construction Inc. and ALSC Architects of Spokane to design and construct a $23 million research and teaching facility at Washington State University Tri-Cities in Richland. With the selection of Lydig and ALSC, work is to begin immediately to convert the conceptual look into design documents. Construction is expected to start this fall, with the building completed in late 2014.

“Lydig and ALSC conceptualized the Wine Science Center as an iconic structure that will attract world-class researchers and future students to the wine industry in Washington State, plus provide a great visitor experience within the facility,” McKinney said. “The Lydig and ALSC team has a proven and excellent reputation of successfully delivering design-build projects and we look forward to working with them on this exciting project.”

Some of the features will include a teaching winery, state-of-the-art research laboratories, classrooms, and an international wine library. The Wine Campaign is in the final stages of fund-raising to complete construction and to fully equip the facility. For more details, including a video about the value of the Wine Science Center, visit http://wine.wsu.edu/campaign/.

-Melissa O’Neil Perdue

Student wine project culminates with bottling, tasting

After months of hard work, Merry Cellars winery is bustling as WSU’s Viticulture and Enology Club bottles, corks, labels, and packages its beautiful rosé of syrah.

Watch them in action: http://youtu.be/9Xuw9NVYkvE and read their full story: http://bit.ly/YCYnE1.

Gena McKahan presents her research poster about granola bars made with grape-seed flour.

The remains of wine grapes picked and pressed typically return to fields as fertilizers, but scientists are also finding ways to recycle those edible remains into healthy foods.

Take Gena McKahan’s gluten-free, merlot grape-seed flour granola bar, for example. As a food science undergraduate at Washington State University, McKahan was curious how different amounts of merlot grape-seed flour would change a granola bar’s antioxidant content when baked with other ingredients. About half the antioxidants in grapes are found in the pomace—the pulpy pile of skins, seeds, and stems leftover from winemaking—and have been shown to help prevent some cancers and cardiovascular diseases.

McKahan made granola bars using a variety of percentages of grape-pomace flour and, overall, her data analysis showed an increase in antioxidant content as the amount of grape-seed flour increased.

“I worked in health care for seven years as an ER tech, so I have seen a lot of people with diabetes and Celiac disease,” McKahan said. She believes developing functional foods (foods with added nutritional value) can help an increasingly gluten-sensitive and diabetic population more easily and accessibly meet their dietary needs.

“Gluten-free products and antioxidants are also part of the health trend,” McKahan said. “The population is looking at labels.”

AprésVin flour made from merlot grape seeds.

Even if a granola or snack bar is nutritious, whether or not consumers will eat it depends largely on taste—an especially pertinent concern since wine flours tend to be more astringent, or bitter, McKahan said. In addition to grape-seed flour, the granola bar included buckwheat, rice, teff seed, and potato starch flavor. Overall, a consumer panel of 60 people said they preferred the granola bars containing 0 and 5% grape pomace flour in comparison to bars with 10 and 15%.

The research also confirms WSU sensory analyst Carolyn Ross and researcher Maria Rosales’ previous study, published in the Journal of Sensory Sciences, which suggested a granola bar with less grape-seed flour still had higher than zero antioxidant content and could be marketable. In their recipe, Ross and Rosales included sunflower seeds, another rich source of antioxidants. McKahan omitted sunflower seeds in her analysis confirming grape-seed flour on its own provides a supply of antioxidants when baked.

Eric Leber, co-owner and president of AprèsVin (French for “After Wine”) donated merlot flour for the experiments. He’s an advocate of using the whole grape. After a winemaker is done with the grapes, the seeds can be pressed for oil and then ground into flour. Leber expresses gratitude for the partnership with WSU researchers and says those in the grape-seed flour industry can use the information to inform their customers about how to best use the flours when baking.

“Using grape pomace is all about sustainability which is important in developing a viable wine industry from both a business and environmental standpoint,” he said. “It’s just a win-win-win.”

And with 8 million tons of grape pomace produced annually worldwide, there’s plenty of research material to go around.

Learn more about research in the School of Food Science at sfs.wsu.edu.

-Rachel Webber

What’s Science Got to Do with the Wine in Your Glass?

Thomas Henick-Kling talks about the importance of science in the growing and making of a great glass of wine.

In a single glass of wine you may discover hints of peach, citrus, mineral, melon, smoke, or spice. But you may not notice that the same glass holds a complex blend of geology, biology, chemistry, microbiology, and meteorology, with a touch of technology. Thomas Henick-Kling, director of the WSU Viticulture and Enology Program, told over 120 wine enthusiasts about the science embodied in glass of wine, at the April WSU Innovators Lecture in Seattle.

Henick-Kling described the skyrocketing growth of Washington’s wine industry in the last two decades and the pivotal role that science plays in the success of this $8.6 billion industry. Washington is now the second largest producer of premium wines in the United States. He touched on a broad array of research projects conducted at WSU, all of which contribute to wines that display regional and grape varietal flavors.

Wine Science Begins with the Landscape

Each of Washington’s 13 distinct viticultural areas (AVAs) produces wines that express the unique terroir of the area. Terroir is the complex and synergistic effect of soil, climate, and topography, as well as grape cultivars and vineyard management style on a wine. Basalt bedrock, Missoula-flood sand and gravel, wind-deposited loess – all contribute to the individuality of grapes grown in regions such as Red Mountain, Ancient Lakes, or Horse Heaven Hills. To the trained palette, the flavors and results of terroir are apparent.

Climate conditions vary throughout the wine growing regions of Washington and are monitored closely by the WSU AgWeatherNet system. With 144 weather stations located throughout the state, AgWeatherNet provides vineyard managers with region-specific information that helps them know when to turn on wind machines to protect buds during cold snaps and when to best employ disease and pest interventions.

Researchers at WSU are modeling grapevine development to understand the relationship of irrigation timing and water quantity and their effects on grape flavors and cold hardiness. They’re developing sensor-based decision tools for precision canopy and water management. Plant pathologists are learning how plants infected with leafroll virus produce less ripe fruit, which affects wine quality. They’re discovering how restoring native habitat supports biological pest controls in vineyards.

Beyond the Vineyard

Wine science and the quest for regional flavor extend well beyond the vineyard. “I’ve never found wine in the vineyard,” said Henick-Kling. “Wine flavor begins with the grape and is modified by the microorganisms that are allowed to prosper during fermentation.” Henick-Kling, a microbiologist and fermentation specialist, explores the multiple personalities of these microbes. “Each yeast strain has its own character that lends to the taste of wine. Only about 100 strains have been explored for their unique qualities so far. We’re characterizing new strains to identify undiscovered flavors and aromas,” he said.

Enologists are exploring the detailed chemistry of compounds that impart specific flavors, aromas, color, and texture; how they’re affected by heat; and how they can be extracted during winemaking. Sensory and consumer scientists are conducting sensory evaluations and using analytical chemistry techniques to identify and describe wine flavors and aromas to better understand precisely what consumers mean when they say, “I like this wine.”

World-Class Wine Science Center

In the vineyard, the winery, and the lab, wine science must be tied to the local conditions that impart the unique characteristics of a wine. Ted Baseler, CEO of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates and WSU Regent, spoke about the campaign to build a new WSU Wine Science Center to be located at WSU Tri-Cities – in the heart of Washington’s wine country.

“With $17.5 million raised by industry, private, and public donors, we’re just $4.5 million from establishing a world-class research and teaching center that is a steeple of excellence,” Baseler said. Ste. Michelle recently hired two graduates from the WSU Viticulture and Enology Program. “They were turnkey — they knew exactly what to do. WSU is producing scientifically well-trained candidates for employment in the industry.”

WSU offers the only Bachelor’s program in wine science in Pacific Northwest, in addition to graduate studies and certificate programs.

Learn more about wine science research and educational opportunities by visiting wine.wsu.edu.

-Sylvia Kantor

Spring issue of Viticulture and Enology Extension News now available

The new issue of VEEN is ready for you to download. This issue has articles about using native plants for biocontrol, understanding the biophysics of water and its relationship to grape fruit quality, a new graft-transmissible grape disease, the new electronic “tongue” in the WSU wine sensory lab, and a winemaking article on tannin extraction and astringency.

Download your copy here: http://bit.ly/11F5Wfq.

Showcase your wines by serving them at temperatures that optimize mouthfeel, flavors, and aromas.

Taking the Temperature of a Lemberger

When it comes to pinpointing the perfect serving temperature for wine, Washington State University scientists are getting warmer.

While it’s often been said white wines are best served chilled and red wines near room temperature, sensory analyst Carolyn Ross is de-mystifying such anecdotes using a relatively new technique called napping. Napping, which comes from the French word for tablecloth (nappe), allows panelists to group their wines by similar traits on a placemat and then write down the attributes they used to choose the groups directly on their “nappes.”

“Panelists use their own language to cluster the wines and then we decode it,” Ross said. “The method requires some interpretation and is complicated for data analysis, but it can really help us understand how attributes change with temperature…while allowing panelists to use their own sensory language.”

In the study, twelve panelists tasted six different Washington State Lemberger wines at three temperatures: 50°F, 60.8°F, and 71.6°F. Physical chemistry predicts that the release of volatile components from a sample increase as temperature rises. This helps explain why, overall, panelists used flavor and aroma terms more frequently with higher serving temperatures than with lower serving temperatures.

“Researchers have shown that many products, when served cold, give off fewer aromas than warm ones,” Ross said. “That’s true of wine and other foods.”

Decoding the nappes

According to the study, Lemberger served at 50°F and 60.8°F left panelists with impressions of a wine that, compared to the wine served at the higher temperature, was sour, bitter, highly astringent, and low in aroma. The cooler wine samples were also described as smooth and thin in comparison to warmer wine samples, which is consistent with research on viscosity, Ross said.

Wines served at 60.8°F and 71.6°F were more frequently described as having spicy and berry notes than the 50-degree sample and panelists were more likely to use “sweet” to describe wines served at those higher temperatures, Ross said.

Sensing a difference in astringent mouthfeel

Ross found it interesting that panelists also grouped their wines by low and high astringency, actually discerning a difference in the tannin level and the intensity of the dry mouth feel that lingered after sipping a sample.
“Even though we didn’t require panelists to use intensities, we kept them qualified in our results because people tended to consistently distinguish between high and low,” she said. ”That was something we hadn’t seen in the previous study.”

Ross said this could be a function of the type of wine–in the past they used a Pinot Noir with lower tannin levels to bring out certain flavors. Each wine has its own qualities that can be influenced by temperature, she said.

“This is useful for those in the wine and hospitality industries who have thought this to be the case, but have lacked formal sensory science studies,” she said. “These industries can use this information to better showcase their red wines.”

-Rachel Webber

Second Phase of ‘Vineyard Beauty with Benefits’ Begins—Again with Aid from Prison Inmates

Native plants like this blanket flower have been shown to attract beneficial insects in and around eastern Washington vineyards. Photo courtesy of David James.

In 2011, WSU entomologist David James began the Vineyard Beauty with Benefits Project to restore native habitats within and around eastern Washington vineyards while attracting beneficial, pest-eating insects and pollinators. James and other researchers conducted field and plot studies on more than 100 plants native to the region in the project’s first two years and identified those that showed the most promise.

Next month, James will begin the second phase: evaluating the top five plants in a vineyard setting to confirm their benefits to integrated pest management (IPM) and to determine impacts, if any, to wine grape production and quality. His work is supported by BIOAg and Washington Grape and Wine Research Program grants from the WSU College of Agricultural, Human, and Natural Resource Sciences.

“The short term impact of this project to the Washington wine grape industry will be identification of native, drought-adapted plants that will establish, grow, and survive well in vineyards,” James said. “They would also serve as a resource and habitat for beneficial insects responsible for controlling grape pests like spider mites, rust mites, leafhoppers, mealybugs, and cutworms.

“Long-term benefits of resilient and hardy native ground covers on wine grape IPM will be considerable in terms of sustaining biological-based pest control,” he added. “Substantial, industry-wide decreases in pesticide inputs and environmental contamination are expected within a few years of implementation, along with increases in farm profitability.”

There are no commercially available, proven IPM-enhancing ground covers that will survive in eastern Washington vineyards without regular irrigation, James said. The availability of one or more such ground covers would provide a significant and welcome benefit to viticulture in the region. The first phase of the Vineyard Beauty with Benefits Project revealed that possible candidates included yarrow, showy milkweed, Northern buckwheat, snow buckwheat, and mountain monardella.

“This project will, ultimately, identify the best native plant ground covers that can be used in vineyards to enhance and sustain biologically based IPM of wine grapes in eastern Washington,” he said. “It will also enhance conservation of threatened pollinator species like native bees and butterflies.”

Building on his earlier success with a Monarch butterfly pathway study, James is again teaming up with Washington State Penitentiary (WSP) inmates, this time for help with identifying and counting insects and mites. The inmates will be trained to use microscopes to examine grape leaf and sticky trap samples collected monthly from James’s test plots.

“The work we conducted with WSP in 2012 on rearing and releasing Monarch butterflies to understand migration routes was such a success, both in terms of research results and educational and mental benefits to the inmates, that we wanted to expand the possibilities of collaborative research,” James said. “If the marvel of metamorphosis as revealed by Monarch butterfly caterpillars can stir the souls of convicted felons, as it did, then I believe they will be held even more spellbound by the world they find under the microscope.”

To read Voice of the Vine‘s previous coverage of this project, please see http://bit.ly/10dWKiE. For more information about the Vineyard Beauty with Benefits Project, visit http://bit.ly/11DCOqZ.

—Nella Letizia

Science of Wine is Topic of WSU Innovator Lecture April 4 in Seattle

Drink in the science with Innovators speaker Thomas Henick-Kling.

What role does science play in the quality of wine? Thomas Henick-Kling, director of the Washington State University viticulture and enology program, explores this and other questions in “Science in Your Glass,” the WSU Innovators luncheon, 11 a.m.-1 p.m. Thursday, April 4, at the Fairmont Olympic Hotel in Seattle.

“Our understanding of all aspects of the winemaking process, from molecules to markets and from vineyards to bottles, underpins the wonderful success of the Washington wine industry,” said Henick-Kling. “This nearly $15 billion industry is an engine of job-creating vitality. I’m excited to be able to share some of the science that makes this all possible.”

The unique characteristics of Washington’s climate and soils contribute to the distinctive taste of its premium wines. But those same characteristics create challenges and opportunities for growers and winemakers specific to the Pacific Northwest.

WSU has partnered with state winemakers and growers since the 1960s to engage in cutting-edge research and provide hands-on education for a highly trained workforce. WSU researchers have helped growers select vineyard sites and vineyard management practices for optimum fruit quality. The university has developed environmentally sound pest and disease management techniques and is helping unlock the chemical mysteries of wine flavor profiles.

“In addition to discussing the science that goes into growing great grapes and making premium wine, I’ll talk about what I see as some of the major issues facing this rapidly growing industry,” Henick-Kling said. “I’ll also give an update on WSU’s vision for the Wine Science Center, a world-class facility that will help ensure that Washington wine continues to grow in market share and in prestige in the global marketplace.”

Henick-Kling has been director of the WSU viticulture and enology program since February 2009. Before moving to Australia in 2007 to become director of the National Wine Industry Centre, he was a wine researcher and educator at Cornell University for 20 years. He was instrumental in establishing Cornell’s undergraduate program in enology and viticulture and in developing the program’s focus on premium Rieslings. His research has long focused on the basics of fermentation science: the yeasts and bacteria that convert sugars and acids into alcohol, aroma, flavor, and rich mouthfeel. His research has contributed to the fundamental understanding of biological processes that enable winemakers to turn good grapes into great wine.

The Innovators lecture series highlights WSU research achievements and promotes informed discussion about matters of vital importance in the twenty-first century. Through lectures and panel discussions by faculty experts and industry leaders, WSU explores a variety of topics and inspires new visions for a vibrant future.

Register online for “Science in Your Glass” at http://bit.ly/scienceinyourglass. Learn more about WSU’s world-class wine science program at http://wine.wsu.edu.

-Brian Clark

1. The Bootstrap Paradox

Call it the Bootstrap Paradox. To get the job, you need experience. You have no real-world experience, so you won’t get hired—but how will you get experience unless you get the job? Everyone new to the employment market faces this conundrum.

The WSU Pullman Viticulture and Enology Club. L-R: Abby Houser, Erin Ghigleri, Brodie Edwards, Riley Miller, Brent Roberts, Pirom Phadoemchit, Peter Virtue, John Hockersmith, Joe Sperry, Will Reed, Joe Imholz, Colton Smith, Garret Stahl, Henry Thompson

Students in the Pullman branch of the WSU Viticulture and Enology Club seized the real-world–experience bull by the horns. Club member Peter Virtue had a little previous winemaking experience—and was determined to get more. His fellow club members also had little or no experience but were eager to put their classroom learning to the test with real grapes in a real winery.

Enter Patrick Merry, alumnus of WSU’s professional enology certificate program, long-time mentor of aspiring Cougar winemakers, and the winemaker at Merry Cellars in Pullman. Merry offered the students the use of his production facility to make their own wine, and mentored them with his expertise.

Riley Miller, V&E Club president, said that, in addition to Merry, WSU viticulture and enology program director Thomas Henick-Kling also provided them with valuable guidance and mentorship. Virtue agreed and added, “A lot of what we accomplished was made possible by the fact that Patrick Merry has really strong relationships with people in the industry.”

What was accomplished was the making of seven barrels of Syrah and a half-barrel of rosé made from Syrah fruit. The rosé, bottled under the Merry Cellars label, will be for sale at an upcoming Mom’s Weekend wine tasting hosted by the WSU V&E Club. That annual event is the club’s main fundraiser. In the past, the group has raised money to fund field trips to Washington wine country – but this year, their plan is more ambitious.

“We are trying to raise money to fund an internship abroad for a club member,” said Club Vice President Pirom Phadoemchit. Miller and Virtue nodded agreement, and Virtue added, “Even a thousand bucks can make the difference in being able to buy a plane ticket to get to Argentina, Australia, New Zealand, France – wherever internships are available.”

2. The Entrepreneurs

Peter Virtue came to WSU after a couple years of liberal arts education at a theological seminary. “I also did a stint in the Marine Corps,” the mild-mannered 30-year-old said. He said he wanted to study viticulture and enology at WSU in part because the V&E Club was so active.

Syrah grapes

The making of the V&E Club Syrah is a saga of entrepreneurial bootstrapping. As Miller put it, “Peter knew what to say to get fruit, glass, barrels, yeast—pretty much everything in this wine was donated to the club.”

Let’s add it up: 3.5 tons of high quality Washington fruit; eight oak barrels; 180 cases of wine bottles; and the fermentation organisms (both yeast and malolactic bacteria). That’s a lot of generosity, and it’s that kind of help that everyone who gets into the Washington wine industry comments on. As Virtue put it, “I don’t think this could have happened anywhere else. It is hard to imagine industry professionals [in other wine regions] helping out students like this. There are so many Cougs in the Washington industry, and Extension is so well developed, that a lot of people appreciate and want to help fledgling efforts like ours.”

Phadoemchit said, “It’s a growing industry and we think people also see us as future employees… or bosses!”

Miller said that, although the Syrah-making project was not technically an internship, he learned a lot. “I found it fascinating to go in each week to taste the wine. It would be different each time and it’s been great to see it develop. And it’s fantastic to put what we study in class into practice like this.”

With a dreamy glint in his eye, Virtue said he would love to make wine in Châteauneuf-du-Pape – but then, who wouldn’t? Step one: learn French. “Every morning I get up and do a lesson in Rosetta Stone.” Step two: learn to make wine; check that one off.

“I want to hemisphere hop!” said the Singaporean Phadoemchit, referring to the fact that it’s possible to work harvest and crush in the northern hemisphere and then start all over in the southern realms. “I love to travel and would love to see the world from its vineyards.” Phadoemchit may get his wish: he’s been accepted as an intern at Domaine Thibault in France’s famed Burgundy region.

Riley mentioned paying off student loans as a post-graduation goal, and all three had to laugh ruefully. But he, too, is interested in learning about the wines of the world. “Wine is made differently in every region, so it would be satisfying to experience that.”

To taste the fruits of the club’s efforts, come to the Mom’s Weekend Wine Tasting on Saturday afternoon, April 13. The V&E Club will be offering barrel tastes of their Syrah, bottle sales of the scholarship-funding rosé, as well as tastings and auctions of a wide variety of top-shelf Washington wines. And where did the club get the wines they’ll be pouring and auctioning to fund future club activities?

“All donated,” said Virtue.

The students in the Pullman branch of the WSU Viticulture and Enology Club gratefully acknowledge the generosity of the following organizations and companies:

Alder Ridge Vineyard and Winemakers, LLC; Barrel Builders, Inc.; Kosta Browne Winery; ReCoop Barrels; Verallia; Scott Laboratories, Inc.; Seven Hills Vineyard; and Ste. Michelle Wine Estates.

Give to V&E Experiential Learning Fund at http://bit.ly/ve-fund. Thank you for your generosity.

Learn more about the Pullman branch of the V&E Club on their website at http://bit.ly/wsuv-eclub.

Learn more about WSU’s educational opportunities in wine science (including professional certificate programs, as well as undergraduate and graduate degrees) at wine.wsu.edu.

-Brian Clark

Mom’s Weekend Wine Tasting Helps Fund Wine Science Education at WSU

The Washington State University Viticulture and Enology Club is hosting its annual wine tasting April 13, 1 – 6 p.m. in the atrium of the Smith Center for Undergraduate Education (the “CUE”). In addition to offering pours of premium Washington wines, there will be a silent auction and a raffle.

Proceeds from the event will benefit the V&E Club, said club member Peter Virtue. “We want to raise funds for the club so that our members can participate in educational events and field trips, and to help fund scholarships for WSU students interested in studying wine science abroad. This event also helps us raise awareness of the Pacific Northwest’s first four-year, science-based educational program in viticulture and enology.”

The wine tasting is organized by club members, who also staff it and solicit donations. “This year, we are pouring wines from Northstar, Kestrel, Kiona, Thurston Wolfe, Januik, and more,” Virtue said.

The silent auction features bottles from those wineries and others, including Woodward Canyon, Abeja, L’Ecole No. 41, and Long Shadows, said Virtue. “We’ve also got a raffle. Prizes include gift certificates from local artisan shops and restaurants and free tasting coupons from wineries.”

One of the highlights of the event will be a barrel tasting of WSU V&E student-made Syrah, and a pouring of a rosé, both made from grapes donated by Seven Hills Vineyard and Alder Ridge. The rosé will also be for sale, and proceeds from its sale will fund a club scholarship to help one of its members with travel expenses incurred as part of an internship.

A ticket for the tasting event is $10, or $15 for tasting plus a souvenir WSU V&E Club wine glass. The students will also be selling WSU V&E club apparel, such as polos and t-shirts.

Learn more about the club by visiting its website at http://bit.ly/wsuv-eclub.

-Brian Clark

Bell pepper, floral, and coconut notes in reds

After spending a summer in the wine hills of northern California, Allison Baker decided to take wine tasting to the next level and study the sensory science behind a sip of Syrah.

Allison Baker at work in a wine sensory lab at WSU.

As a graduate student in the WSU/UI School of Food Science, she focuses on sensory analysis–combining experimental design with statistical analysis to evaluate consumer products. Specifically, she’s looking at wine finish, the lingering aroma and taste after swallowing red wine.

“Wine finish is important because it is tied to quality,” Baker said. “There are several common beliefs about finish, as related to quality, that haven’t necessarily been scientifically proven, so winemakers would benefit from this kind of information as they make decisions about how to process their wines.”

One notion associated with red wines, for example, is that they have a complex berry fragrance and flavorful tannins, she said. Tannins don’t have a flavor, per se, but can taste bitter and are definitely astringent, one contributor to what sensory analysts call ‘mouth feel.’ In her work, Baker is experimenting with flavor standards such as 3-isobutyl-2-methoxypyrazine (bell pepper), phenylethanol (floral), and oak lactone (coconut) to see how they interact with ethanol (alcohol) and tannins.

“With tannins you expect astringency and with ethanol you expect bitterness,” she said. “What is still unknown is, besides their obvious sensory qualities, how the wine matrix components affect the flavors and how they finish. Mainly we wanted to look at the effect of ethanol on the finish of each flavor, the effect of tannins on each flavor, and also the interaction between ethanol and tannins.”

Canoe Ridge Winery in Walla Walla used reverse osmosis to create a wine that contained 3 percent alcohol and donated it for Baker’s trials. Baker spiked the wine with food grade alcohol to 10 and 16 percent and mixed in the tannins and flavors. Ten panelists were trained to recognize the different components of the wine and used a computer program to record their perception of each.

Baker found, overall, floral notes finished earlier than coconut or bell pepper. She also found the impact of ethanol had a more significant impact than tannin on panelists’ taste buds. Meanwhile, the more alcohol she added, the longer panelists could taste the coconut and floral flavors. The duration of bell pepper, however, was not affected as alcohol increased.

In low concentrations, bell pepper has been said to contribute to the character of wine, while in high concentrations it is considered a defect. Carolyn Ross, a sensory analyst at WSU and Baker’s adviser, said they plan to take wine from the trials and use a consumer panel to further evaluate the finish in Baker’s wines.

“Later, we will have a consumer panel evaluate these wine finishes to see how much the consumers like the finish,” Ross said. “For example, if there is a bell pepper flavor that finishes later, we want to know how that contributes to their experience with the wine.”

A poster summarizing Baker and Ross’ research (funded by three scholarships from Washington Wine Industry Foundation, one from WSU, and a grant from Rhone Rangers) thus far was presented at the Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers meeting in early February. As Baker moves toward graduation, she’s certain she wants to continue on as a sensory analyst.

“Wine sensory studies have a science component, but it’s also really about food and the consumer,” she said. “It’s really interesting to see how products get from point A to point B and how their sensory properties contribute to whether they end up successful on the shelf.”

Learn more about research in the School of Food Science at sfs.wsu.edu.

-Rachel Webber

“You need a lifetime or more to learn everything about winemaking,” said Judy Phelps, standing among plastic tubs and oak casks containing grapes at various stages of becoming wine. Phelps, winemaker at Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards in Chelan, Washington, was sharing some of her life’s enological experience.

Keith Thurman (left) and viticulture and enology program director Thomas Henick-Kling listen to the winemaker of Tsillan Cellars Winery and Vineyards explain the challenges of selling wine in Washington. Photo by Bob Hoffmann/WSU.

And Lana Getubig, a 2009 graduate of WSU’s online viticulture professional certificate program, was drinking it up. She and other students and alumni of the viticulture and enology certificate programs took a weekend in November to further their education, traversing the wine country around Lake Chelan in north-central Washington. The tour is one of many opportunities offered by WSU for grape growers and winemakers—veteran, novice, and aspirational alike—to network and share knowledge.

Participants were able to ask established professionals about seemingly mundane details that could have significant repercussions. One notable detail at Hard Row to Hoe was the floor of the wine cellar. A thin, shiny epoxy-and-sand mixture coated the slab on which the building sat. “Grape juice and wine eat concrete,” explained Phelps. The special coating provides both protection to the concrete floor and traction for workers.

Judy’s husband, Don, took the group to the vineyard for insights on his area of expertise. “The slopes of our vineyard help cold air pass through without settling,” he said. The leaves of his vines had lost most of their green pigmentation and, although faded to a muted yellow, remained undamaged by the November cold. He pointed, by way of contrast, to a neighbor’s vineyard on a flat spot at the bottom of a slope. That site allowed cold air to pool, and the leaves there were coated with a layer of frost. Poor site selection shortened the neighbor’s growing season and negatively impacted the quality of grapes.

Once a vineyard site is selected, young vines need proper care, Phelps told the students. “We often hear that grape vines need to struggle, but that doesn’t apply to young vines. They need water to become established.”

Julie Pittsinger of Karma Vineyards talks with viticulture certificate student David McKeller about making sparkling wine with the traditional Methode Champenoise. Photo by Bob Hoffmann/WSU.

After visiting the tasting room, the group continued on to visit other wine producers, including Tildio Winery, with its sweeping view of Roses Lake and the North Cascades Wilderness. Katy and Milum Perry purchased the property in 2001. Katy already had considerable experience in winemaking, including stints at Robert Mondavi and Chateau Ste. Michelle.

Their fermentation room, with its stainless steel tanks, was heated to 60 degrees Fahrenheit for the benefit of malolactic fermentation. Tildio was bullish on using co-inoculation with yeast and malolactic bacteria. “I used to stay away from co-inoculation,” said Katy Perry, “but I’m starting to fall in love with it because of the finished product.” When one student asked about the labor-saving benefits of co-inoculation, Perry said that such labor savings weren’t a motivator for the owner/operator of a small winery such as herself. “Labor savings are inconsequential if the final product isn’t good.”

After a full day of touring and wine tasting, program participants gathered at Campbell’s Resort for a buffet dinner featuring wines produced by the students and alumni of the program. This offered an opportunity for group critiques, as well as a gratis evaluation by WSU’s viticulture and enology program director, Thomas Henick-Kling. Henick-Kling enjoyed the Syrah brought by Leala Cramer, winemaker at Marcus Sophia Winery and a 2008 graduate of the enology certificate program. Her winemaking style uses a gentle press of the grapes, creating a smooth, rich mouth feel. “Continue to make batches with the light press,” Henick-Kling advised her, “but also try a separate batch where you press harder for more tannin. This will produce wine with a different style. And don’t worry about too much tannin in Washington State. Washington tannins usually ripen enough to provide a good mouth feel.”

Henick-Kling said that wine tours for continuing education are vital not just for newcomers to the trade but for the entire industry. “The established wineries also benefit from hearing new ideas,” he noted. WSU has already hosted other tours within Washington as well as to Chile, Argentina, and New Zealand. An upcoming tour to Italy is sold out, and a summer trip to France is in the planning stages. Henick-Kling also hopes to bring winemakers from abroad to tour Washington, providing yet another opportunity for winemakers to network and trade tips and techniques. Henick-Kling said that these trips are designed for people interested in the inner workings of the wine industry, and are not casual wine-tasting sojourns. “We seek out wineries with staff who can articulate the specifics of their geographical region and the local winemaking techniques, and aren’t just trying to sell a few bottles in the tasting room. With our research, planning, and long-term relationships, we can provide an experience that would be difficult for an individual to arrange.”

Cramer eagerly agreed. “The organized tour gives access to the ‘back room’ of wineries that wouldn’t be available to someone just stopping by the tasting room.”

Michael Burns, who just started the enology certificate program, also valued the experience. “I love hearing the real-life stories. Everyone will have challenges with growing grapes and making wine, so it’s great to hear how others got started and what they did to get where they are.”

Learn more about WSU’s professional certificate programs in viticulture and enology by visiting http://bit.ly/vecert.

-Bob Hoffmann

“Vine to Wine” Workshop Teaches Business, Production Techniques

“Vine to Wine” workshop is slated for April 21-22 in Prosser. Photo by David Wilbanks (http://www.fotopedia.com/users/8pcck49cd9o7o)

WSU, in collaboration with wine-industry professionals, is offering a two-day intensive “Vine to Wine” workshop, 20-21 April in Prosser. The workshop is recommended for anyone thinking about starting a vineyard or winery, or for those who have recently entered the Washington wine industry. The goal of the workshop is to educate potential and new growers and winemakers in the essentials of economic and environmentally sustainable high-quality grape and wine production practices.

Starting a vineyard or winery is a big investment requiring extensive financial, marketing, and horticultural planning. On Day One of the workshop, participants learn the ins and outs of vineyard and business establishment and management. The economics of starting a vineyard along with the principles of site selection, establishment, and sustainable grape production will be addressed.

On the second day of the workshop, Washington winemakers and wine educators will address the basics of winery design and equipment, what to look for in grapes, fermentation science, the science of red and white winemaking, and the economics of establishing and running a winery.

The workshop will be held at the Best Western Inn at Horse Heaven Hills in Prosser. Seats are limited and pre-registration is required. The cost is $60 for one day, or $100 for both days. Registration includes snacks, beverage, and catered hot lunches, and a social on Saturday night. Registration also includes a digital copy of presented information.

For more information and to register, please visit http://bit.ly/Vhq6MT.

Updated Lab Manual for Winemakers Now Available

WSU professor of enology, Charles Edwards, and Bruce Watson, retired wine quality manager, have teamed up to rewrite “Basic Microbiological and Chemical Analyses for Wine.”

The newly revised and expanded wine lab manual is for people wishing to conduct general laboratory analyses of grape musts and wines. Determinations of sugar, sulfur dioxide, titratable and volatile acidities, pH, and alcohol content are integral measurements performed by both commercial and home winemakers. While these determinations allow chemical adjustments to musts and wines, they are also critical for compliance with state and federal laws regarding wine composition (that includes alcohol content, volatile acidity, and sulfur dioxide).

One area that the authors have tried to address throughout the manual is the question of quality assurance regarding laboratory results. Wine statistics are notoriously difficult to compare between wineries due to variability in methods and practices between laboratories. In fact, wineries occasionally encounter difficulty in obtaining reproducible results even within the same laboratory. In this manual, the authors have suggested some controls that may help wineries address these issues, while reminding readers that the opportunity exists for more work to be done in this area.

Order your downloadable copy of the new lab manual for winemakers by visiting http://bit.ly/wsu-wine-lab-manual.

Lauren Schopp in the lab, preparing a sample of red wine before using high-performance liquid chromatography to quantify levels of spoilage precursor compounds.

What are spoilage yeast and bacteria doing in wine, aside from spoiling wine? Lauren Schopp, an M.S. student in the Washington State University/University of Idaho School of Food Sciences, decided to investigate spoilage yeast and bacteria by tracing their biochemical pathways, or the ways they interact with chemicals already present in wine. She specifically looked at Brettanomyces bruxellensis, perhaps the Godzilla of spoilage yeast, and Pediococcus parvulus, a bacterium common to red wines but whose impact on quality isn’t well described. Although Brett and Pediococcus can grow independently, these two troublemakers flourish in one another’s company.

The food chain for Brett and Pedio starts with the grape, particularly the skin, which has naturally occurring compounds called hydroxycinnamic acids, often in the form of tartaric acid esters. Partly as a result of the winemaking process, a portion of these esters are transformed into acid forms that are precursors to spoilage compounds. Both Brett and Pediococcus metabolize those acid precursors, producing intermediate vinyl compounds. Brett then metabolizes the vinyl compounds to producing compounds in wine that taste or smell “off.”

Schopp, mentored by enology professor Charles Edwards, worked with samples of Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir donated by a Washington winery. Measuring levels of the precursors using high-performance liquid chromatography, Schopp found relatively high concentrations of caffeic acid in the Washington Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon samples, higher than concentrations often cited in scientific literature. This should not immediately set off an alarm, however, because caffeic acid metabolizes into 4-ethylcatchol, which, while a spoilage compound, has a relatively high sensory threshold, meaning that wine would need high levels before it could affect flavor and aroma.

Concentrations of p-coumaric acid and ferulic acid, also precursors to spoilage compounds, were found to be within normal levels in the wine samples.

After introducing two strains of Pediococcus and four strains of Brettanomyces to various wine samples, Schopp determined that Pediococcus was quite partial to caffeic acid. It metabolized a smaller portion of p-coumaric acid, but didn’t bother with ferulic acid at all.

Brett behaved a bit differently, with its consumption of the precursors being strain-dependent. One of the strains of Brett failed to grow in the wine as its populations slowly declined over time. While utilization of caffeic acid and ferulic acid varied significantly depending on the strain, the remaining three strains showed a strong fondness for p-coumaric acid, using nearly all the available precursor. The decrease in p-coumaric acid and ferulic acid corresponded with an increase in their spoilage metabolites, 4-ethylphenol and 4-ethylguaiacol. However, not all results were this clear-cut. Significant variations in precursor metabolism often emerged depending on the type of wine and whether Brett, Pediococcus, or both were introduced to the sample. While Brett and Pedio flourished in each other’s company, this didn’t always result in increased metabolism of the precursors.

The good news for winemakers is that neither Brett nor Pedio could break down the tartaric acid esters of hydroxycinnamic acids, compounds which could have served as a large pool of precursors to foul-smelling compounds. Schopp’s research gives some insight into the behavior and interaction of Brettanomyces and Pediococcus in wine, although more work is necessary to get a better handle on controlling the spoilers. Her research was funded by the Washington Wine Advisory Board.

Beyond her lab work with wine and its spoilers, Schopp’s accomplishments include a first-place team award at the 2012 “Developing Solutions for Developing Countries” national competition. Schopp served on the student team that created “Mango Maandazi,” a fried bread product incorporating mangos to address harvest and nutrition issues in Kenya. For more information on the Mango Maandazi project, see http://bit.ly/KHX8h4.

For more information on the work in Edwards’ lab, see http://bit.ly/Sj5bU2.

-Bob Hoffmann

A handful of juniors and seniors majoring in viticulture and enology at WSU Tri-Cities are engaged in a winemaking project that takes them from the vineyard to the winery and beyond. Their capstone course involves every aspect of the winemaking process, said Thomas Henick-Kling, director of WSU’s program in viticulture and enology.

A WSU student picking grapes in early October. Photo: Thomas Henick-Kling/WSU.

“We have six students enrolled in the course,” said Henick-Kling. “They’ve been partnered with professional winemakers who have generously offered their production facilities for the project. So, although they are closely mentored, the success of the project is entirely up to the students. As a group, they had to figure out what wine they wanted to make, then source the grapes from local growers. Once their wines are bottled, they’ll learn some of the business side of winemaking, such as the requirements for wine bottle labeling and tax reporting. This course takes everything they’ve learned in the classroom and in previous internships and applies it, literally, from the ground up.”

WSU students tour a wine production facility. Photo: Brian Clark/WSU.

The three-semester group project started last spring, when the students began planning. The six students decided they wanted to make both a red and a white wine. Although the six are a tightly knit team–having first worked together to plan their project and in the vineyards to pick grapes, then helping each other dragging hoses and cleaning the production facilities in the winemaking process–they knew that to make both a red and a white, they would need to divide and conquer.

Four members of the team, Lora Morgan, Dane Day, Colin Hickey, and Robb Zimmel, are working with Co Dinn and his award-winning winemaking team at Hogue Cellars to make a Riesling. Students Joel Perez and Garrett Grover are working with Charlie Hoppes, the acclaimed owner and winemaker at Fidélitas, to make a Grenache-based, Rhone-style red wine.

“The idea,” said Joel Perez, “is to have two professionally created commercial wines ready for release at roughly the same time as the opening of the new Wine Science Center.”

A WSU student working in a wine production facility. Photo: Brian Clark/WSU.

Lora Morgan said, “Our goal is to learn from the talented winemakers at Hogue and Hoppes to produce a Riesling and a Rhone blend that encompass the true expression of the grapes grown in Washington.”
“We all collaborate when it comes down to the final blend, marketing, label design, and packaging,” said Dane Day. “Our goal is to make wines that WSU, its alumni and, most importantly, its students can be proud of.”

Now that their wines are made, the students took a few minutes out of their busy schedules to talk about the roads that led them to Richland, about WSU, and about their passion for fermentation science.

Not so long ago, Robb Zimmel explained, he was working as a LifeFlight paramedic in Portland. “Talking with colleagues, I realized they loved their jobs. I just didn’t feel that fire. I was fascinated by fermentation science, having made beer. But, at 40 years old, I didn’t think it made sense to go back to school to get a degree in enology. I’d be 43 by the time I graduated! A friend of mine said something that changed my mind: ‘You’re going to be 43 no matter what. You can either be 43 without the degree or with it.’ The rest, as they say, is history.”

A WSU student checks a fermentation at a wine production facility. Photo: Brian Clark/WSU.

This resonated with Perez, who said, “After the Marine Corps, I was exploring my options. I, too, am fascinated by fermentation science. After I researched the programs out there, I decided to come to WSU to study viticulture and enology.”

Morgan nodded, adding, “I wanted a B.S. because I wanted the depth of scientific understanding of the biochemical and microbiological processes that are so important in winemaking.”

Grover, too, shared the interest in science. He started as a chemistry major at the University of Puget Sound but, when he learned about the viticulture and enology program, he moved to Tri-Cities.

Day said he moved from Phoenix to study at WSU because the program and the industry are “growing exponentially.”

Colin Hickey concurred. “I picked WSU — and specifically the Tri-Cities campus — because it is in the heart of Washington wine country.”

The six are now working with a professional graphic designer who has experience with wine labels, while they are also working through some of the intricacies of the wine business. They’ll all graduate within a year or so –- long before the wines they’ve made are ready to pour. But they’ll be back, to uncork and pour the Riesling and the Rhone blend, to share stories of their successes, and to help inaugurate the opening of the Wine Science Center.

Learn more about WSU’s world-class wine science educational opportunities by visiting http://wine.wsu.edu/education/.

–Brian Clark

Wine Industry Leaders Announce $17 Million Raised to Date for Future Wine Science Center at WSU Tri-Cities

Dedicating the site of the future WSU Wine Science Center on the campus of WSU Tri-Cities.

In mid-October, about 150 people, from donors to students, joined Governor Christine Gregoire and WSU President Elson S. Floyd to dedicate the site of the future WSU Wine Science Center at the corner of George Washington Way and University Drive in Richland. At the dedication, wine industry leaders also announced that $17 million had been raised for the future center.

“Every world-renowned wine region has a research university partnering in its success. In Washington, that’s Washington State University,” said Ted Baseler, President and CEO of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, a WSU Regent and chair of the WSU Campaign for Wine.

The research and teaching conducted at the Wine Science Center will be specific to the challenges and opportunities faced by grape growers and winemakers in the Pacific Northwest, and will help triple the economic impact of an industry that already is worth $8.6 billion.

“Having this research facility is critical to the continued growth of our Pacific Northwest wine industry,” Baseler said. “Research will ensure that we produce the best wine grapes. Research will then help us make great wines with distinctive flavors that become sought after internationally. This facility and the teaching program at WSU will produce a workforce pipeline of trained WSU graduates — for our vineyards, for our wineries, and for all the allied industries that work with us.”

–Melissa O’Neil Perdue

Tour Italian Wine Regions with Experts in Viticulture and Enology

Come visit with, and learn from, expert viticulturists and winemakers in some of Italy’s most renown wine regions during a two-week educational trip. Offered by the WSU V&E Program, the tour will take participants through the wine regions of Piedmonte, Tuscany, and Veneto. Each regional stop will educate participants about local grape varieties and vineyard management practices, and will also focus on a specific technical topic. Field visits are also scheduled to highlight regional differences and local use of technologies. The intensive schedule will still allow for sightseeing in some of the most beautiful cities in Italy.

The intensive schedule allows for a few breaks for sightseeing in some of the most beautiful cities in Italy.

For more information, including photos from previous tours, please visit http://bit.ly/ve-italy-2012. Contact Theresa Beaver at tbeaver@wsu.edu to register for the tour.

Raise A Glass, Fund a Scholarship

Chateau Ste. Michelle is proud to partner with Washington restaurants to support the fifth annual “Raise a Glass, Fund a Scholarship” program to benefit viticulture and enology programs at Washington State University and other Northwest universities. Nearly 200 restaurants in Washington participate in this annual program, which runs through the end of December 2012. Since the program started in 2008, together we have raised over $200,000 for future wine industry professional scholarships. 

Participating in this cause is simple. Next time your plans call for dining out, we hope you select one of the participating restaurants and Raise a Glass, Fund a Scholarship.

For a complete list of participating restaurants, please visit http://bit.ly/veglass.

Sulfur dioxide is one of the winemaker’s most familiar tools, helping control spoilage yeasts such as Brettanomyces and Zygosaccharomyces. When Brettanomyces, unaffectionately known as “Brett” among enologists, crosses a critical threshold, it imparts undesirable odors and flavors. Affected wines may have a spectrum of negative sensory qualities, ranging from sweaty horse to barnyard and worse. Zygosaccharomyces, too, has a negative impact on wine quality, as it feeds on residual sugars, introducing sediment, cloudiness and, in some instances, enough gas to explode containers.

Food science doctoral student Jesse Zuehlke in front of fermentation tanks.

While sulfur dioxide can prevent these some of these problems, some individuals are sensitive to the chemical. Additionally, the wine industry has been striving to reduce the use of sulfur dioxide due to growing consumer interest in foods and beverages with fewer additives. In response to this growing consumer demand, scientists at WSU and elsewhere are investigating the use of antimicrobial schemes that reduce reliance on sulfur dioxide by combining its use with other, non-chemical treatments. Jesse Zuehlke, a Ph.D. student in the Washington State University/University of Idaho School of Food Sciences, has pushed the science forward by investigating the interactive impact of temperature and sulfur dioxide concentration.

Zuehlke, mentored by food science professor Charles Edwards, cooled identical wine samples to four different temperatures between 10 degrees Celsius (50 degrees Fahrenheit) and 22 C (71.6 F). He introduced Brettanomyces bruxellensis and, after an acclimation period, added varying amounts of sulfur dioxide. Preliminary data showed that the combination of temperature reduction and sulfur dioxide addition had a greater effect than either treatment independently. Zuehlke identified a sweet spot where the combo treatment had the greatest efficacy. With temperatures of 15 C (59 F) and below, a molecular sulfur dioxide concentration of 0.25 mg/L was sufficient to control the three strains of Brett that he tested in the laboratory, preventing the emergence of undesirable aromas and flavors.

This SO2 concentration is significantly below the 0.4-0.6 mg/L of sulfur dioxide often recommended for aging wine under commercial conditions.

Beyond his lab work with wine and yeasts, Zuehlke’s accomplishments include a first-place team award at the 2012 “Developing Solutions for Developing Countries” national competition. Zuehlke served as captain of the student team that created “Mango Maandazi,” a fried bread product incorporating mangos to address harvest and nutrition issues in Kenya. For more information on the Mango Maandazi project, see http://bit.ly/KHX8h4.

As Zuehlke completes his research and anticipates graduation in May, he is looking forward to a career in food product development.

For more information on the work in Edwards lab, see http://bit.ly/Sj5bU2.

-Bob Hoffmann

Latest Issue of VEEN Offers Tips on Dealing with Smoke Taint and More, and a Glimpse of Robots to Come

The new issue of WSU’s Viticulture and Extension Newsletter (VEEN) is out and, as usual, is chock full of valuable information for professional practitioners and passionate amateurs.

On the enology front, doctoral student and phenolic wizard Federico Casassa continues his series on maceration and red winemaking, this time focusing on aromas. Casassa points out that human taste buds are pretty basic, perceptually speaking, while our noses are much more discriminating, capable of perceiving about 10,000 different odors.

Jim Harberston, WSU’s resident expert on wine chemistry and the winemaking process, offers a timely note on smoke taint. Smoke taint can result in wine with some unpleasant taste and aromas, and he offers some relatively simple ways of dealing with the potential problem.

Visions of robots dance through their heads: in this image, squares indicate cut points selected by the pruning rules. Photo courtesy Vision Robotics.

Thomas Henick-Kling, director of WSU’s viticulture and enology program, weighs in with a short piece on atypical aging in white wines, a flavor defect that can arise when vines experience water stress. He offers a quick test to determine if your wine is likely to develop ATA.

On the viticulture side, state Extension viticulturist, Michelle Moyer, and entomologist David James present the results of a study on using dormant lime sulfur in Washington vineyards.

Master’s student Matt Halldorson presents a summary of two years of data from a study he conducted on the impact of drought and cold tolerance in Grapevine Leafroll Virus-infected plants.

Vision Robotic’s Tony Koselka writes about preliminary results from a prototype robotic grapevine pruner. The robotic pruner is guided by software algorithms that tell it where to cut, and it “sees” the plant with 3D camera imaging technology. Want one of these gadgets for your very own? “Vision Robotics is focused on creating technology to enable robots to autonomously and intelligently work in real world applications. The company has developed an extensive library of software, hardware and technology useful for the automation of many tasks. Depending on funding levels, the pruner could be in commercial production in as little as 18 months.”

Download your (free, as ever) copy of VEEN at http://bit.ly/veenf2012.

Flying High

Airfield Estates’ legacy of 45 years continues to soar on site of WWII airbase

The Airfield Estate water tower. Photo: Nella Letizia, WSU MNEC.

Step through the doors of the Airfield Estates’ tasting room in Prosser, and you step back in time to the 1940s. Swing-era jazz filters in from hidden speakers while wall space is dedicated to photos of World War II military planes. One photo, dated 1942, shows a line of planes in front of a 70-foot water tower, hangars, barracks, and a weathered mess hall. Airfield Estates owner and WSU alum Mike Miller grew up in that mess hall.

Miller is full of stories about the former airbase that gave the family wine business its name. But equally important to him is the history of four generations of Millers who farmed around Prosser and the family’s Cougar tradition.

Bringing Water to the Valley

Miller points to a black-and-white photo of his grandfather, Howard Lloyd Miller, taken in 1938. In it, the elder Miller stands in front of a canal tunnel near Ellensburg Canyon, just before the new Roza Irrigation District started delivering water to the Yakima Valley. Today, the district provides irrigation water to 72,000 acres.

Lloyd, as his family knew him, was the first Miller to own and manage farmland in Sunnyside at the turn of the century. He was a visionary, seeing the promise of agricultural wealth in the Yakima Valley. He worked tirelessly to bring a second irrigation canal to the lands northeast of the Yakima River.

It was also because of Lloyd that an airbase came to be on Miller land. In 1941, Olympia Air Transport Company leased non-farming land from Lloyd to build the airbase as a training ground for military pilots. After the war ended and the base shut down, the site and buildings reverted back to Lloyd, who converted them for use in agricultural production.

Lloyd named the farm Airport Ranch, and at first raised livestock, alfalfa, and grains. Later he shifted to producing sugar beets, corn, asparagus, beans, and mint.

“These unique buildings became the headquarters of the Miller family’s farming operations up to today,” Miller said. “Over time, many of the buildings began to deteriorate, but two of the original hangars still exist, and we continue to use them as workshop and storage facilities.”

WSU and Wine

Mike Miller, Marc Miller, and Lori Stevens take flight at Airfield Estates. Photo courtesy of Mike Miller.

WSU history for the Millers started even before farming. Miller’s uncle, Howard, was the first in the family to attend and graduate from Washington State College in the early 1930s. Miller’s father, Don, attended WSC for two years but left as a junior to join the Army Air Corps during WWII. After the war, Don returned to Sunnyside and joined the Airport Ranch operation until he retired in 1990.

Miller followed in his father’s footsteps and joined the U.S. Navy in 1967. After his discharge, he attended WSU, graduating with an agronomy degree in 1974.

While Miller was in the military and at WSU, Don began planting wine grapes at Airport Ranch. In 1968, inspired by WSU horticulturist and “Father of Washington Wine,” Walter Clore, Don started with an experimental vineyard of Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Riesling. By 1971, he took the plunge and planted 10 acres of commercial wine grapes, selling the first yields in Canadian markets.

Two events marked Airport Ranch’s full immersion into the Washington wine industry. In 1977, the U and I Sugar Company announced it would close all Washington sugar production plants, thereby eliminating the farm’s primary market for its sugar beets. At the same time, Chateau Ste. Michelle, Washington’s biggest winery, wanted wine grapes from outside producers to meet demand.

“The technical support that we received from Chateau Ste. Michelle was invaluable in our education as growers,” Miller said. “Today, we are still heavily involved with the company.”

Solo Flight

The Airfield Estates tasting room in Prosser is a feast for the eyes as well as the palate. Photo: Nella Letizia/WSU MNEC.

In 2007, after three decades of supplying grapes to the state’s largest wineries, Miller decided it was time to fly solo. The fourth generation of Millers–son Marcus, head winemaker, and daughter Lori Stevens, marketing director–had joined the family business, each gaining experience in winemaking and wine marketing locally as well as in New Zealand and Australia. Airfield Estates began offering its own estate wines in the spring of that year and held a grand opening of its Prosser tasting room in July.

“And that’s been pretty much the end of Cougar football for me,” Miller joked. But not the end of expanding his Cougar family. Lori’s husband, Aaron Stevens, an enologist for Chateau St. Michelle in Paterson was raised a Cougar, thanks to his father, Jim, and grandfather, Blair, both WSU alums.
In the last five years, Airfield Estates has increased production from 2,300 cases to 30,000 cases, some under its Lone Birch label. In addition, Miller opened another tasting room in Woodinville, Washington, in April 2010. The Airfield Estates’ barrel room, with a storage capacity of 600 barrels, is full, Miller said. Plans are in the works to build a second storage facility in a year.

Visitors to Airfield Estates winery office in Prosser can certainly enjoy the premium wines, but the myriad reminders of the family’s ties to aviation are equally appealing. A huge water tower with the word “Airfield” can’t be missed from Interstate 82.

“The tower is a two-thirds-scale model of the original at 45 feet, per Prosser regulations,” Miller said with a smile.

—Nella Letizia

For more information about Airfield Estates, visit http://www.airfieldwines.com/. If you have a Cougar connection and want your winery or vineyard operation featured in WSU’s Voice of the Vine, we’d love to hear from you! Contact the editor at brian.clark@wsu.edu.

Wine Science Center at WSU Tri-Cities

Deep in the heart of Washington wine country, the Wine Science Center at WSU Tri-Cities is well on its way to becoming a reality, thanks to WSU’s many public and private partners. When completed, the center will be a world-class research and teaching facility designed and equiped to meet the needs of the Pacific Northwest wine industry. With more than $14.1 million raised towards the project funding goal of $23.25 million, groundbreaking is on track for Sept. 2013. Learn more, and stay current, with what’s going on with the Wine Science Center by subscribing to the Updates newsletter at http://bit.ly/RYbpwy.

Viticulture Field Day Offers Harvest of Science-based Solutions for Growers

John Derrick of Mercer Canyons Inc. didn’t know what was wrong with two blocks of the farm’s 920 acres of wine grapes outside of Prosser last year. Leaves showed reddish discolorations and flecking. He and other vineyard staff speculated about a variety of causes, ranging from a viral infection to chemical damage.

He found the answer at the 2011 Washington Viticulture Field Day at WSU’s Irrigated Agriculture Research and Extension Center. Derrick learned about phosphorus deficiency in wine grapes from one of the presentations—and the leaves in the study looked exactly like those at Mercer Canyons’ vineyard. Applying phosphorus fertilizer fixed the deficiency.

“That field day coincided with what happened in our fields,” Derrick said. “It was very helpful to bring closure to the problem. Today, the fields look fine. There are no deficiencies now.”

Derrick returned to the IAREC on Aug. 10 for more more ideas and discussions at this year’s field day. He joined some 40 other area growers and viticulture stakeholders to hear presentations on managing canopy gaps to minimize production loss, nitrogen treatments in Concord grapes, nematode management, and the complexities of leafroll disease.

Concord Grape Spacing for Higher Yields

Markus Keller, WSU Chateau Ste. Michelle Distinguished Professor of Viticulture, discusses Concord grape spacing during the 2012 Washington Viticulture Field Day.

Since 2002, WSU Chateau Ste. Michelle Distinguished Professor of Viticulture, Markus Keller and his team have been testing the establishment and performance of Concord grapes planted at various distances within and between vineyard rows with the goal of consistently maximizing crop production while maintaining desirable fruit quality.

Keller and other researchers planted test rows with 8 or 9 feet between them to allow for mechanical pruning and harvesting. Within rows, they spaced plants at 3, 6, 9, and 12 feet apart. Over the long term, the 6-, 9-, and 12-foot vine spacings produced equal amounts of fruit of similar quality.

Time is the only requirement for this approach to managing canopy gaps, so plants can adjust to their new structure. “The plants adapt to the changes in the canopy,” he said. “Roots go deeper, and the trunks get wider. But don’t let weeds take over with wider spacing within rows.”

To Fertilize or Not to Fertilize

WSU soil scientist Joan Davenport discussed nitrogen management and timing in Concord grape. In 2010, Davenport and her research team found that timing nitrogen treatments to the bloom period, when grape plants are taking in nutrients at the highest rate, increases nitrogen use efficiency, reduces the potential for off-target nitrogen movement, and maintains or improves productivity.

Davenport and other researchers also discovered that applying nitrogen post-harvest didn’t result in any increases in yield. So three years ago, she and her WSU team eliminated fall nitrogen application to grapes in the Roza test plots.

“We are still looking at maximum yield and best Brix (fruit sugar content) at treatments of 40 to 60 pounds of nitrogen per acre,” she said.

Another factor to consider is the soil’s temperature in the spring, Davenport explained. The best time to apply nitrogen is when temperatures are above 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Fertilizing when soil temperature is lower is inefficient and doesn’t maximize the grape plant’s uptake of nutrients.

The soil itself also maintains nutrient reserves naturally, she added, which has implications for nitrogen management decisions in vineyards. “There’s something going on in the soil that’s replenishing the system,” Davenport said. “We can actually take advantage of the soil’s reserves of nutrients and limit nitrogen application if applicable.”

Nematode Scourge

Michelle Moyer, WSU viticulture extension specialist (left) and OSU graduate student Amanda Howland present information on nematodes during the 2012 WSU Viticulture Field Day.

Michelle Moyer, WSU viticulture extension specialist, and Amanda Howland, an Oregon State University graduate student, spoke about nematodes associated with Washington grapevines and fumigation alternatives for their management.

Nematodes are a formidable pest of grape. The microscopic, aquatic roundworms live and move in the soil through water, and they can stay in the soil for years without having a plant to feed on, Howland said. They can also burrow as far down as six feet into the soil to avoid the reach of chemical fumigants. Vineyard age, stress, and higher pest populations in a given year can all contribute to an infestation in grape plants. They damage grapes by limiting the plant’s ability to take in water and nutrients, stopping root growth, and killing root tissue, resulting in stunted vines and reduced yields.

Nematode management should start even before planting, by performing soil tests, Moyer said. Those tests can also identify which species is present so growers can tailor treatment. Howland encouraged growers to collect samples in the fall, after nematodes have completed their lifecycle on the grape roots and return to the soil.

“Nematode management is really difficult once the plants are in the ground,” Howland said. “Many alternatives are prevention- or pre-planting-focused, emphasizing the proactive nature of nematode management.”

For already planted vines, a systemic fumigant for mealybug, Movento®, also controls nematodes–at a significant cost, Moyer said. But fumigation alternatives are being sought as researchers learn more about the off-target impacts of certain pesticides. Alternatives to chemical fumigation include mustard and cover crop planting and use of nematode-resistant rootstocks.

White and oriental mustard and other cover crops such as arugula and sudangrass release chemicals that, when incorporated with the soil, kill nematodes. Mustard seed meals also serve as a good nitrogen source.

Ghost in the Vineyard

Virologist Naidu Rayapati

WSU grape virologist Naidu Rayapati investigates grapevine leafroll disease (GLRD), a complex viral disease of both wine and juice grapes that affects vine health, fruit yield, and fruit quality. Chemicals can’t control it, and it manifests in different, even symptomless, ways, depending on the grape variety, vineyard age, stage of infection, type of virus, viticultural practices, and environmental conditions.

It hides like a ghost in a healthy vineyard until late July or early August. In red wine grapes, leaves turn red, then reddish-purple, and curl in on themselves. In white wine grapes, leaves might yellow or show mottling before they curl—or they might show nothing at all. Because GLRD viruses are predominantly spread through plant cuttings, Rayapati stressed to growers attending the field day the importance of bringing in and planting clean plants. Any new plants introduced into an established vineyard should be guaranteed virus-free from a certified nursery.

“We use laboratory-based methods for the detection of viruses and other graft-transmissible agents,” Rayapati said. “We incorporate state-of-the-art techniques to strengthen our capacity in diagnosing new and emerging disease problems in Washington vineyards.”

Scoping Mealybugs

Graduate student Brian Bahder discussed his work on developing a faster, more reliable method of monitoring grape mealybug in vineyards. Until recently, growers searched individual vines for adults, a time-consuming task. But the sex pheromone for grape mealybug has been synthesized for use in pheromone-baited traps, which could potentially save growers time and resources. The new traps also show what mealybug populations are doing at any point in the season, which could guide insecticide treatments.

Nella Letizia, text and photos

Washington Viticulture Field Day is sponsored by the Washington State Grape Society and WSU Viticulture and Enology Extension. For more about WSU viticulture and enology research and extension efforts, visit http://bit.ly/RleZSD. To learn about WSGS, visit http://bit.ly/RuDd7u.

Dana Roberts

How does a liberal arts major, fresh out of college and with little wine experience, hit the ground running in the wine industry? By apprenticing with seasoned winemakers, by hiring consultants, and by taking Washington State University’s online enology certificate program, an experience that Westport Winery’s Dana Roberts described as enlightening and invaluable.

In 2007, Roberts enrolled in the WSU enology certificate program. Concurrently, he began an internship with a winery in Leavenworth, giving him both hands-on experience and a way to apply what he was learning in the online classroom. Within a few months, he was making wine at Westport Winery, Washington’s western-most winery.

“The certificate course allowed me to get a broad scope of knowledge across a wide variety of topics and really helped me get off the ground.”

Beyond the information in the course, Roberts found the online format to be valuable, allowing him to get the knowledge he needed when he needed it, and at the times convenient to his schedule. He found chemistry to be the most challenging part of the curriculum. But the expertise and helpfulness of the instructors piloted him through any difficulties. “The instructors are truly experts in all of their fields,” he said. “They were more than willing to share everything they knew about their particular topic.”

Dana singled out Jim Harbertson as his favorite. “He really is the wine guy. I read his articles in various publications to this day. He is a wonderful resource to have as a winemaker because he really is at the top of this field.”

Online forums helped Dana establish a sense of community with his peers also working through the certificate program. He enjoyed the variety of perspectives among his cohort, which ranged from individuals just starting as home winemakers, through industry professionals looking to put a stamp on their practical knowledge. Three times, this community left their online meeting place to convene at wine camp, a course requirement for certificate students to demonstrate their skills and view industry practices. In addition to applying their chemistry lessons at wine camp, they also visited bottling lines and toured wineries of varying sizes, to see how companies make wine at different scales of operation.

With Westport Winery now producing over 30 types of wine from Chardonnay and Riesling to Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon and fruity dessert wines, Roberts has more wines than years. In gratitude to thier community of supporters, Westport donates a portion of the proceeds from each wine to support local charities, including charities with a WSU connection. Sales of Little Wild Blackberry Riesling benefit Grays Harbor and Pacific County Master Gardener programs. Bog Berry Blush features Gewürztraminer in a blend with cranberries to benefit the Pacific Coast Cranberry Research Station and Museum. “We love Gewürztraminer,” Dana said of the blend. “We make more Gewürztraminer than anything else, and that will probably continue as long as we are operating.”

At Westport, their love of Gewürz and goal of continuously improving quality have borne fruit for the winery. Going Coastal, a sparkling Gewürztraminer, was bestowed a platinum award from Wine Press Northwest in 2011.

In just a few short years Roberts has moved from neophyte to eloquent spokesperson for the Washington wine industry. “When I think of Washington wine, I picture beautiful vineyards and beautiful country. I think of all the people that we work with. When people come into our tasting room, it’s always fun to see what they are excited about, and it’s that relationship with the people you meet that drives the Washington wine industry.”

–Bob Hoffmann

WSU’s online enology certificate is in high demand, and attendance is limited to ensure an optimal instructor/student ratio. Learn more about the online certificate at http://bit.ly/vecert. Those who don’t want the full certificate, or who want to study a specific area of winemaking, may purchase self-directed, non-credit courses at http://bit.ly/NmS6v8. 

Check out a short video featuring Westport Winery co-owner Kim Roberts talking about her family’s relationship with WSU, their community and the importance of entrepreneurship and giving. Westport Winery is known for its commitment to the community by being open daily and by donating a portion of the proceeds from each wine to support local charities: http://bit.ly/westportwine. Westport Winery ships its wines to select states, so those wishing to support WSU programs by purchasing Little Wild Blackberry Riesling and Bog Berry Blush can order them online at http://westportwinery.org/shop/.

Freshly Minted Masters Students Now Busy Growing Some of the World’s Best Grapes

They came to the vineyards of eastern Washington from Massachusetts, Wisconsin, and Arizona. Although their backgrounds are as different as their home states, they now have twothings in common — a master’s degree in viticulture earned under the mentorship of Markus Keller, and a good job in their chosen fields.

“We’ve had great success in seeing our students take jobs in the viticulture industry,” said Keller, the WSU Chateau Ste. Michelle Distinguished Professor of Viticulture. “We barely have time to hand them their degrees before they are out the door to go work in vineyards all over the world.”

Laura Deyermond

Andover, Massachusetts, native Laura Deyermond said, “I chose WSU because I wanted a new adventure outside of New England. I knew that I wanted to study viticulture on the West Coast and WSU had an up and coming program which was producing a lot of interesting and practical research.”

Well prepared for graduate study with a B.S. in Plant, Soil, and Insect Sciences with a concentration in sustainable agriculture from the University of Massachusetts, Amherst, Deyermond studied the consequences of irrigation on various pruning regimes effect grapevine growth and development. “Grapevines are not irrigated on the East Coast, so I wanted to gain a better understanding of grapevine physiology and how to gauge vine water status based on external symptoms.”

Richard Hoff

Coming to WSU with a B.S. in Horticulture from the University of Wisconsin at River Falls, Richard Hoff studied berry shrivel, a ripening disorder that sometimes plagues grapes. “I mostly worked with Cabernet Sauvignon and studied a ripening disorder that begins at or after veraison and results in shriveled berries with low sugar concentration and low pH – making them extremely sour!”

“Arizona had some viticultural endeavors that piqued my curiosity, and that’s what ultimately brought me to WSU,” said Matt Halldorson. “After getting my B.S. in plant biology at Northern Arizona University in Flagstaff, I worked a few seasons for the U.S. Forest Service as a botanist and a firefighter. But I could never secure more than seasonal employment, so I decided to look at another area of plant biology for a career. I have always been interested in ethnobotany — the study of human/plant relations — and growing wine grapes is certainly one of the oldest forms of ethnobotany, so it seemed like it might be a good fit.”

Matt Halldorson

Halldorson did his Master’s research on leafroll disease on Merlot grapes, studying how the disease can change drought tolerance and cold hardiness of the vines. “It was a great project that allowed me to learn about several important aspects of viticulture — pathology, water relations, and winter cultural practices among them,” he said. “And before I even graduated, I had an offer of an assistant viticulturist position with Wycoff Farms in Prosser. I am now working for them full time and the 2012 growing season is in full swing!”

Deyermond, the Massachusetts native, said, “Graduate school  gave me the confidence to trust my own instincts and the skills I need to continue learning. I am currently working as an assistant viticulturist for Jack Neal and Son, a vineyard management firm in the Napa Valley. It was my goal to be a Napa Valley viticulturist ever since I started working in vineyards on Long Island in New York.”

Richard Hoff said that his graduate studies gave him “a good foundation in the biology and chemistry of grapevines and the practical application of viticulture. This has prepared me well for my current position as a viticulturist with Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, where I monitor over 5,000 acres of vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, and provide consulting and suggestions to growers under contract with our company.”

“The success of these students is indicative of how hungry the viticultural industry is for employees with strong science educations,” said Keller. “Being able to think critically and approach problem solving creatively go hand in hand with working through the challenges of a Master’s degree program. All of us involved in WSU’s viticultural research and education programs are proud of Laura, Richard, and Matt — and all our graduates. As we know, a great bottle of wine begins in the vineyard, so it makes me happy about the future greatness of the vineyards they are working in, and the fine wines that are sure to follow.”

–Brian Clark

WSU Research Winemaker Inducted into Washington Wine Hall of Fame

George Carter’s partnership with Walter Clore and Chas Nagle revolutionized the Washington wine industry.

WSU Research winemaker George Carter, who worked side-by-side with Washington viticultural pioneer and WSU horticulturist Walter Clore, is the 2012 inductee into the Legends of Washington Wine Hall of Fame. The Walter Clore Wine and Culinary will honor Carter during the Legends of Washington Wine gala slated for 6:30 p.m., Aug. 10, at the Clore Center in Prosser.

Carter graduated from UCLA in 1935 with a B.S. in chemistry and took graduate courses at both U.C. Berkeley and Washington State University. With his background as a chemist, Carter made wine from more than 100 grape varietals planted by Clore throughout the state.  Together, Carter and Clore transformed the state’s wine industry. They proved that grapes grown in Washington could produce world-class wines. Carter and Clore became fast friends and traveled together to some of the world’s best known wine and grape growing regions. When dining, they were known to ask for Washington wines and demand that they be added to the establishment’s wine list.

As part of his work and research, Carter developed a system for classifying American, European, and hybrid grape varietals. Carter retired in 1977.  In recognition of his wine making accomplishments, Carter was elevated to Supreme Knight in the International Brotherhood of the Knights of the Vine.

A George and Susan Carter scholarship has been established with the Washington State Wine Industry Foundation that will provide yearly scholarships to individuals who pursue education in wine making or enology. For more information, go to  washingtonwinefoundation.org.

WSU at the Auction of Washington Wines

Thomas Henick-Kling, director of WSU’s viticulture and enology program, extends a personal invitation to all wine lovers to stop by WSU’s table at the Picnic & Barrel Auction at Chateau Ste. Michelle. The fun starts at 4 p.m. on Aug. 16. The Picnic & Barrel Auction features picnic games and activities on the grounds of the beautiful Chateau Ste. Michelle Winery. Participants get the chance to rub elbows with Washington winemakers as they mingle among the crowd to pour tastings of their newest and oldest releases. Guests also enjoy bidding on some of Washington’s most coveted limited-release wines during the Barrel Auction, while enjoying gourmet picnic fare presented by the talented team of chefs from Tulalip Resort Casino. Click here to purchase tickets.

Your participation in both the Picnic and Barrel Auction and the Auction of Washington Wines Gala help support wine science research and education at WSU. The 25th anniversary Wine Gala will be held on the grounds of Chateau Ste. Michelle and guests will enjoy a six course meal prepared by some of the area’s best chefs. Each table will be hosted by a Washington state winemaker, who will pair and pour wines from their collection. The evening will be filled with one-of-a-kind auction lots, various entertainment, and numerous industry guests. Learn more about, and purchase tickets for, the Auction of Washington Wines Gala here.

Liquid Assets: A Few Take Home Messages from the Annual ZINO Society Forum

If you want to make wine from Dick Boushey’s grapes, you better have skills. The venerable viticulturist grows some of the most sought-after fruit in the Pacific Northwest. When he is vetting a potential new customer for his grapes, he looks for experience, education, and ability. At the 2012 ZINO Vino Liquid Assets Forum in Seattle, Boushey said, “Yes, winemaking is an art, but there is a lot of science involved, too.”

The annual Liquid Assets Forum is one of many events hosted by the ZINO Society in the group’s effort to connect investors and wine industry entrepreneurs in order to expand Washington’s premium wine industry.

Efesté winemaker Brennon Leighton agreed with Boushey. Leighton said that you can run on common sense as long as things are going well. But when problems arise, as they inevitably do, a solid education in the sciences is what saves the day. “I have moments every day when the light bulb goes on and I draw on my education in plant physiology, microbiology, and chemistry. For example, to decide whether to filter or not, you have to understand the consequences of that and you only understand that with the foundation of science.” Leighton knows what he’s talking about, as the much-admired winemaker works only with wild fermentations. “I have to understand the biology of the critters I am working with — the organisms that do the initial and malolactic fermentations — in order to get them to do what I want,” he said.

The ZINO Society annually hosts a forum on the business of wine. This year’s all-day forum, held at the elegant Urban Enoteca in south Seattle, featured panels on marketing, social media, education, and the critical importance of the interplay between the science of wine and the art of crafting a story. Norm McKibben, a longtime viticulturist and partner in Pepper Bridge Winery, put the importance of the two in a nutshell: “you’ve got to have good grapes, you’ve got to make good wine — but the most important thing is you have to sell it.”

Greg Harrington, a partner in Seattle Magazine’s 2008 Winery of the Year, Grammercy Cellars, agreed. “Most of this business is getting on planes and getting in front of customers,” he said, emphasizing the idea that a winery needs a face and a story. “A winery is a restaurant in slow motion: it’s all about customer service and hospitality.”

Chris Figgins, second-generation winemaker and president of Figgins Family Wine Estates, which produces the highly sought-after Leonetti brand, said that with more than 700 hundred wineries in the state, you not only have to have a story, you have to have passion. Harrington added that focus is also critical. “We have too much flexibility in Washington,” he said. “We’re known for a couple of varieties, but it is too easy to make everything. But you only have 15 seconds to sell a sommelier.”

Greg Lill, a partner in DeLille Cellars, said, “You have to keep getting back on the plane. You have to be persistent in your marketing.” Boushey nodded and said, “Marketing, yes. But you are at the mercy of Mother Nature. We can’t have an ’07 vintage every year. This is an agricultural product and people who don’t live close to agriculture sometimes forget that.” This observation inspired McKibben to add that “the wine is 80 percent made by the time it gets to the winery,” a variation on the idea that a great bottle of wine must be grown in a vineyard. Harrington said that to build a sustainable wine business, “anything that puts you in the vineyard as often as possible is crucial.”

Harrington confessed that his path was not one he would recommend to anyone hoping to get into the wine business. “Don’t do what I did. I rolled the dice. I had only been to Washington once” – he came west from New York City where he was a master sommelier to work crush with McKibben, and never went back – “and I didn’t know how to make wine.” The Washington wine industry is known for its educational opportunities, though, in both the formal sense of Washington State University’s science-based degree and certificate programs, as well as in a more informal sense in that growers and winemakers share knowledge and experience with one another.

Leighton of Efesté returned to that point by saying, “You’ve got to get an education, at a university but then go get trained by someone in the business.” Thomas Henick-Kling, director of WSU’s extensive viticulture and enology research and education programs, said, “You need to get dirty in the industry before you spend the money on a formal education.” He said that grape growing and winemaking are arduous jobs. Grape growers work under the hot sun, coaxing the development of phenolics and sugars, while winemakers spend a great deal of time hauling hoses and other heavy equipment. Chris Figgins said it well: “When things go well, you can run on intuition, but when things get weird you need the science.”

–Brian Clark

Washington State University offers a science-based Bachelor of Science degree program that prepares students for a career in the global wine industry. Learn more by visiting http://bit.ly/wsuwisciundergrad.

WSU also offers online education in viticulture and enology, with programs tailored for people looking to retool their careers. Investigate the online certificate programs at http://bit.ly/vecert.

Opportunities for graduate study in both viticulture, enology, and the business of wine abound at WSU. Begin your exploration of WSU’s world-class research programs in the science of wine at http://bit.ly/grad-wi-sci.

Learn more about WSU’s program in the business of wine by visiting http://bit.ly/wsuwinebiz.

The Seattle-based ZINO Society connects accredited investors with entrepreneurs seeking funding. To help facilitate successful angel investing for ZINO Society members and entrepreneurs, ZINO Society cultivates camaraderie in the world of business and wine with extraordinary people and experiences, crafting insider events, access to vintners, chefs and unique venues.  ZINO Society’s active investor network has invested  $20.5 million in angel financing to date and hosted over 500 presenting companies. Learn more at http://bit.ly/zinosociety.